Vitamin A is normally found in the skin predominantly as retinyl palmitate, which is an ester form of vitamin A (fat-soluble). Ester is the most stable form of vitamin A. Retinyl palmitate accounts for about 80% of the vitamin A found in the skin. Retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate are milder, though still active forms of vitamin A that are easier to tolerate by the skin. They are actually the forms in which vitamin A is stored in the liver. Retinyl acetate is more active than retinyl palmitate and about as active as retinic acid (Retin A).

Retinol is a very active, alcohol form of vitamin A that is also the form used for transport of vitamin A in the blood. It is less irritant than retinoic acid. The main difficulty with retinol is its formulation. It is difficult to make a cream with retinol and keep it active. Generally Retinol has a limited shelf life.

Retinoic acid (Retin A) is the most metabolically active form of vitamin A. Since it’s an acid form, first time users may develop retinoic reaction in the form of peeling, flackiness and some breakouts. Most people don’t like this kind of reaction thus if you are vitamin A first time user, start slow, choose vitamin A in the form of Retinyl Palmitate and build up your tolerance to the higher concentration or different form.

Retinoids are all very active chemicals, easily degraded by exposure to light, heat, air and moisture. Therefore, when used in cosmeceuticals, they must be made under very controlled circumstances. Afterwards the preparations must be carefully protected in their original containers. For this reason viamin A creams must not be put into conventional cosmetic glass jars with wide lids; the vitamin A on the surface of the cream will be denatured by exposure to air and light and the skin wll not actually obtain the dose of vitamin A that is intened.

Vitamin A as well as vitamin C is essential in the production of healthy collagen and elastin. These are protein fibers that give adhesion and elasticity to the skin. Collagen and elastin  is damaged by free radicals and exposure to UV light. As a result skin starts to lose it’s tone and structure, and with time will begin to sag. Fine lines and wrinkles are an indication of the loss of collagen and elastin protein fibres or a break-down of those fibers by sunlight .  Sun damage is the major cause of the skin age, as the matter of fact 80% of ageing is caused by the sun. I always tell my clients to compare their face and hands to the area of the body that is never exposed to the sun to see the difference in the skin structure, appearance, tone and elasticity – as we age the difference becomes significant. Topical vitamins (vitamin A and C) as well as anti-oxidants (vitamin E, green tea, beta-carotene etc) are absolutely essential in neutralizing free-radical damage, protecting the skin from harmful UVA and UVB light, polution and stimulating healthy collagen and elastin production.

The real significance of vitamin A in ageing was realised by research workers in the 1930′s. They discovered that vitamin A was very easily degraded by exposure to light and air and postulated that because old skin was generally sun-exposed skin, the cause of aged skin could be as a result of a deficiency of vitamin A caused by the light sensitive nature of the molecule. In 1950′s Professor Cluver proved that everey time we go out into sunlight, we significantly deplete our vitamin A levels not only in the skin but also in the blood. This is true not only for blistering hot sunligh, but also for the gentle UV-A irradiation (light) on a cloudy or even rainy day, though, of course, the effects are milder. Vitamin C, E and beta-carotene, also normally found in the skin, are also destroyed by sunlight. Some people think that you can get all the vitamin A you need from diet alone. However, the truth is that by diet alone it could take seven days to replace the vitamin A lost in the body after one heavy exposure to the sun and only very small percentage of  the vitamin reaches the surface of the skin, whereas with the Environ AVST range, vitamin A is replaced in the skin within 3 hours.

Vitamin A produces the following changes:

• it revitalizes the skin and rejuvenates the DNA of the cells
• it affects the genes of the cells so that the keratinocytes (predominant skin cells) grow and look more normal; it is a regulator or normaliser of the DNA. It increases the growth of the basal layer (growth layer) of the skin cells, which may be the predominant reason or the thickenig of the skin
• not only does skin  get thicker; it also heals faster because the cells are growing faster – speeds up cell turn-over
• it affects the fibroblast cells, the most important cells in the dermis which  are responsible for production of  collagen and elastin
• it increases the secretion of natural moisturizing factors by the fibroblast cells into the space between the cells, allowing the skin to retain more water with some puffing out of the wrinkles
• the blood supply to the deeper layers of the skin is improved which means that more natural foods and oxygen are delivered to the skin and cells
• it regulates oil production hence is very effective in treating acne or acne-prone skin
• repairs UV damage

All above mentioned factors impove the appearance, structure and tone of the skin as well as help to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

Vitamin A is measured in international units (i.u.) per gram. The recommended effective doses is between 500 i.u. and 50 000 i.u. Anything less than 500 i.u. is generally of absolutely no value unless used with some penetrant enhancers. Consult with your licensed esthetician or dermatologist what would be the best form and level of vitamin A for your skin. Unique Verve uses in the facials and offers to it’s clients Environ products which always contain clinically proven levels of vitamin A and other active ingredients.

Since ancient times, people have used cosmetics to try to improve their skin and to hide the effects of ageing. While offering the hopeful user the promise of being a “miracle in a jar”, until recently, most creams remained simple, old-fashioned moisturizers in progressively more modern and expensive packaging.

The introduction of vitamin A into skincare formulation was a groundbreaking moment, because it offered benefits to sun-damaged skin.  Prominent Cape Town plastic surgeon Dr Des Fernandes was a pioneer in this field. In the 1980s, he was one of the first to use vitamin A in high enough dose for a genuine, measurable effect on the quality of the skin.

Dr. Fernandes became interested in the mechanics of skin cancer and the skin following the ultimely deaths of two young patients due to melanoma. Through his research, he discovered the essential role of vitamin A in skin health and he became determined to create treatments that would maintain healthy skin, eapecially as the incidence of sun-related skin disorders grows worldwide. Out of this, the Environ range and company were born.

The cornerstone of Environ treatments is vitamin A. Extensive medical research and trials have shown that vitamin A has a corrective effect on skin, smoothing it and softening and protecting it from the effects of ultraviolet radiation and free radicals. Its most important activity is to normalise the skin. It promotes the production of healthy collagen and elastin and improves the skin’s natural moisture, leading to healthy, younger-looking skin.

Environ draws on cutting-edge technology, combined with proven botanicals, anti-oxidants and scientific principles to create skincare ranges that address different needs and problems for people of all ages. Environ is acclaimed by international beauty ediors, skincare therapists and dermatologists.

Unique Verve is proud to offer Environ products to it’s clients and to use Environ products during all facial treatments.

Because Environ is a medical skincare line, it’s not available for the purchase online. Please feel free to contact Unique Verve for any questions or product consultation.

Free radicals cause damage to cells, forcing the aging process into an accelerated pace. Free-radical damage occurs when atoms or groups of atoms have an odd (unpaired) number of electrons. Smoking, air pollution, and the sunlight stimulate free-radical damage to the skin. Simply by exposing skin to the sun, the level of vitamin C in the skin drops by 30%, and subsequently, free radicals are formed. Antioxidants couple with free radicals gto neutralize the unpaired electrons. Vitamin C is recognized for its strong antioxidant and photo-protective properties, although vitamin C is never recommended as a substitute for sunscreen. Why not just take oral vitamins to protect the skin?  Oral vitamins, whether from food or supplements, are not adequate to perform the necessary antioxidant tasks to improve the skin because the levels of vitamins required do not make it to the dermis. Only 1% of orally ingested antioxidants will arrive at the skin. The combination of topical antioxidants and sunscreen is a powerful and effective way to hinder free-radical activity.

Pycnogenol is a powerful scavenger of free-radicals as well as an antioxidant. It restores the strenght of capillaries and improves circulation, making it easier in treating the capillary fragility of aging skin. Pycnogenol enhances the effectiveness of both vitamin C and vitamin E. Ask Unique Verve about results-oriented products, including powerful serums with Pycnogenol.

Topical vitamin C comes in two varieties, L-ascorbic (water soluble) and esters (water and fat soluble). Vitamin C is needed to produce collagen, the skin protein.  If part of the topically applied vitamin C is consumed in antioxidant functions to reduce oxidative stress, eliminate free-radicals, and repair oxidative damage, then less vitamin C is available for collagen production. By adding Pycnogenol to formulations containing antioxidant vitamins, the Pycnogenol quickly performs the antioxidant functions, leaving more of the vitamin available to perform its therapeutic functions. By pairing these two antioxidants, the vitamin C performs more collagen generating functions, causing collagen production to be faster and more extensive, at the other hand Pycnogenol performs antioxidant functions. Ask Unique Verve about results-oriented products, including Super-C Serum with Pycnogenol.

Vitamin A acts by normalizing growth and differentiation in the keratinocytes (predominant cells in the epidermis). Vitamin A is truly the gold standard of skin-care products – it’s a must have product to help reverse the aging process. Vitamin A is absorbed through the skin, helping it to remain soft and plump, and improves the skin’s water barrier properties. Ask Unique Verve about results-oriented products including vitamin A.

Vitamin E, also called d-alpha tocopherol, has been shown to have two importanct benefits for the skin: protecting cellular membranes and inactivating free radicals. Ask Unique Verve about result-oriented products including vitamin E.

AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) are also very important skincare ingredients. The samples of AHAs are: glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, acetic acid. AHAs may change the condition of the lipid barrier of the skin allowing a faster penetration of the product, like vitamin C or vitamin A, and other antioxidants or moisturizers. Glycolic acid are often preferred because of the small molecular size and easy penetration into the skin – it opens the skin by exfoliation of the top most layer. Glycolic acids smooth the way for vitamins, it penetrates deep into the skin, and prepares the way for vitamins. Certain vitamins, used in conjunction with glycolic acid, offer double protection agains free-radicals, and assist their antioxidant, bleaching, and firming effects. Ask Unique Verve about results-oriented products, including glycolic acid.

Unique Verve facials deliver visible results. All facials are results-oriented and include intensive serums. Unique Verve is located in Boston, on Tremont Street.

Please feel free to leave any comments or questions below. You may also contact Unique Verve via e-mail or phone.

Hyperpigmentation results from the increased deposition of melanin, which causes the skin to become darker in patches. Melanin is part of skin barrier defence system in that it protects against exposure to UVR and pigmented blemishes are almost always the result of excessisve stimulation by sunlight. The pigmentation should be considered to be a warning sign from the body that the affected area has received too much sun damage. DNA damage by UVR is the major aggravating factor of excessive pigmentation. Although sunlight is essential for human life, daily exposure to the sun over a lifetime is a major cause of skin damage, including pigmentation, wrinkling and skin cancer. Sun exposure causes free radical damage to the cells, forcing the aging process into an accelerated pace. Simply by exposing skin to the sun, the level of vitamin C in the skin drops by 30%, and subsequently free radicals are formed. In addition, UVR inactivates the vitamin A receptors. Vitamin A is required for cell replication. Free radicals cause abnormal melanin production and impaired DNA/cell replication. 

How to Treat Hyperpigmantation:

• A conscious effort must be made to avoid all natural and artificial UVA & UVB, and a broad-spectum sunscreen including anti-oxidants, must be worn at all times (no exceptions).
• Topical antioxidants like vitamin A & C  are essential to use on daily basis to protect and rebuild the cells. Vitamin C and A is a power-house in treating pigmentation. Antioxidants couple with free radicals to neutralize free radicals; and boost collagen and elastin production. Vitamin C is recognized for its strong antioxidant and photo-protective properties, although vitamin C is never recommended as a substitute for sunscreen. Please contact Unique Verve about your skin analysis and product consultation.
• Use of  AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) products help to exfoliate dead and and hyperpigmented cells, and stimulate the production of new cell growth. AHAs accelerate cell turnover, thus increasing the production of collagen. Remember that each one of us has different skin type and skin condition, hence each treatment requires an appropriate treatment plan and an individual approach. Please contact Unique Verve about your skin analysis and product consultation.
• Lightening Agent, hydroquinone is used to lighten the visible appearance of hyperpigmentation. Hydroquinone comes in various percentages (2%, 4% , 8%) and can be combined with other active ingredients. This product is not for all skin conditions and photo types, hence it requires an appropriate treatment plan and an individual approach. 2% is the most safest formula; anything higher is a prescription and requires caution. Sepiwhite is also used in controling melanin production. It’s not as fast acting as hydroquinone but it is much safer approach.
• Regular professional facial treatments that are based on antioxidants like vitamin C and A will help to improve skin color and texture, fine lines and boost elastin and collagen production. Active Vitamin Penetration with Ionzyme DF Machine ensures deep penetration of antioxidants/serums; Advanced LED Photopulsation light also helps to diminish hyperpigmenation. Such facials are available at Unique Verve in Boston.

Appropriate homecare products, professional facial treatments and nutrition work in synergy to treat any skin condition, including hyperpigmentation.